A Delightful Week in Bordeaux, France
- Ian
- Aug 4
- 19 min read
Updated: Sep 16
It's been a couple years since I was last in France. The last time would have been in the summer of 2023, which was a weekend trip to Paris to do some research on several blog articles I was looking at writing. Hotels with an Eiffel Tower View, Swimming in the Seine, and a Journey through Pastries in Paris to be specific. Prior to that it would have been my trip to Burgundy, Cluny specifically, which was just before the pandemic cast the world into chaos. Oddly enough I've yet to write about that trip... stay tuned. That being said, having always wanted to visit Bordeaux I decided that this summer we would take a week and explore the area.
Bordeaux, the elegant capital of France's renowned wine region, offers visitors a perfect blend of urban sophistication, historical charm, and world-class viticulture. This UNESCO World Heritage city provides an ideal base for exploring both metropolitan delights and the surrounding countryside's natural wonders.
Naturally, Bordeaux is most well known for its wine, but as I was developing an itinerary, I discovered there was a lot more that the region offered. My wife also had something on her bucket list that she wanted to be able to check off while we were there. I booked us some flights from Istanbul to Bordeaux via Transavia airline. It was relatively inexpensive and was a direct flight so I was quite happy with that. As the day approached for our departure, we were very excited about getting the opportunity to explore the region. Follow along with us on our journey to Bordeaux.
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Day One: Arrival and Settling In
We had two groups going and we were meeting at our vacation home in the Bruges neighborhood. Our arrival times were a few hours apart. My family was the first to arrive so we met our host and she showed us around the property. More on that later. Then we just walked around our neighborhood a little bit to familiar your eyes ourselves with what was there and found we were a short distance from a LeClerc shopping complex where we were able to stock up on groceries for the next couple of days. The other half of our party showed up early evening and we're pretty tired so we pretty much just decided to spend the time in the evening, relaxing from travel and swimming in our pool.
Day Two: Discovering Downtown Bordeaux
We spent our first full day in Bordeaux's magnificent city center, where 18th-century architecture creates one of Europe's most cohesive urban landscapes. Starting at the iconic Place de la Bourse, travelers find themselves mesmerized by the world's largest reflecting pool, the Miroir d'Eau. This stunning water feature transforms the historic square into a living artwork, with the classical buildings perfectly mirrored in the shallow water that alternates between reflection and mist every fifteen minutes.
I had read about this reflecting pool online and when we first arrived, there was very little water in there. I thought perhaps because Bordeaux had just experienced a brutal heat wave that maybe there was a malfunction or the water was not available. I had not read that it cycled but after strolling around for a few minutes, the mist and fog started up. Soon enough water was bubbling up through the cracks and we had a good 2 inches of water everywhere.
The experience was made all the more delightful watching the kids splash around and get utterly soaked. Admittedly, I did a little splashing around myself as it was a fairly hot day and was quite fun. Photography enthusiasts discover this spot offers some of the most Instagram-worthy shots in all of France, particularly during the golden hour when the setting sun illuminates both the buildings and their liquid reflections. While we were near the river, I wandered down to a dock to look up information on cruises for the river. Having obtained the requisite knowledge and made my way back to the reflecting pool to join the rest of the group.
From the reflecting pool, the adventure continued along Rue Sainte-Catherine, which at a little over 1 km long is Europe's longest pedestrian shopping street . This bustling thoroughfare is lined with everything from international brands to charming local boutiques.
Shoppers weave between street performers and café terraces, discovering that Bordeaux perfectly balances commercial vitality with French elegance. The narrow side streets reveal hidden gems: artisanal chocolate shops, vintage bookstores, and cozy wine bars where locals gather for evening aperitifs. And of course, there are the places that sell crème de glace, which were scattered all over the area, giving the kids a difficult choice as to which one to get their ice cream at. One particularly cute spot we found was the Promenade where colorful umbrellas lined the upper levels. The area had a nice seating area under cool vines, and a few cute shops and brasseries.
By late afternoon the kids were getting hungry, we all were to be frank, so we started to search for a restaurant in the area to grab a bite. We soon discovered that pretty much everything shuts down at 2:30 in the food service industry with the exception of a few places. Lunch in Bordeaux is served between noon and 2:30 and then the restaurants close until around five or 5:30 in the evening when they re-open for the dinner service. Fortunately we were able to find a pizza place called Totto in the Place du Parlement that was still open and had air conditioning so we settled in there for a late lunch.
After refueling, we decided to do more walking just around the urban center taking in the sites and stopping at the shops. By about 6 o'clock, though, the kids were tired and starting to complain, so we decided to make our way back to our house. Transit in Bordeaux is great. Where we were there was a tram station (the D line) that was two minutes walk from our house and went straight into the city center at Quinconces station. This station is kind of like Central station for the area as it serves three different tram lines, allowing you to explore all over the city.
I highly recommend downloading the TBM mobilités app for travel on the trains and trams. You can use the app to plan out your route and to purchase tickets. We bought a 10 ticket package for 15 Euro our group which were valid for a trip up to one hour. You did need to validate the ticket on your phone for each transfer even if you were still traveling under one ticket. In other words, your ticket was valid for transfer. You don't need to buy another one, but you just have to scan it at the screen whenever you board. If you're going to be staying in the city and doing a lot more travel on the trains and trams and ferry boats then you could always look at getting three day pass for example (13.50 Euros for each person) which is unlimited travel, but as we were not going to be doing extensive transit travel we figured the book of 10 tickets worked best and made the most sense economically.
Day Three: Rivers, Cruises, and Urban Exploration
The third day we had booked a leisurely Garonne River cruise, offering a unique perspective on Bordeaux's architectural splendor. The Yacht de Bordeaux company welcomes you on board for a privileged and unforgettable cruise of 1h30 and included a glass of wine, and a canelé. A canelé (pronounced "can-eh-lay") is a small French pastry that is local to the region and is a rum custard infused cylinder of a caramelized crust. From the water, passengers appreciate the city's remarkable urban planning – the way the 18th-century facades create an unbroken line along the riverbank, earning Bordeaux its nickname "The Sleeping Beauty."
The cruise provided fascinating insights into the city's maritime heritage. Our guide explained how Bordeaux's strategic location, where the Garonne meets the Dordogne to form the Gironde estuary, made it one of Europe's most important ports. The modern Pont de Pierre bridge, with its distinctive arches, frames perfect views of the old town. In between wry comments and stories ( she was really quite funny) we also learned about how the city was developed over time and the effects of the World war on the city. We traveled west towards the Atlantic, passing under a couple of modern bridges, one of which was able to raise the center segment to accommodate large ships. These ships could not go any further up the river past the Ponte de Pierre Bridge, though.
After disembarking, the exploration continued on foot through the city center's remarkable landmarks. From the water we had a structure we want to visit so we set out to find it. we succeed in locating in in short order and fortunately so because the skies opened up at the moment with a deluge. It is called the Porte Cailho which was built in 1495. This monument has a castle-like exterior was once the main entry gate to the city. There is a (very) small museum and gift store up the steps in the building which has a few level. The first floor is free entry so we wandered up and had a look around until the rains abated.
From there we wandered to the Cathédrale Saint-André which showcases Gothic architecture at its finest, while the separate bell tower, Tour Pey-Berland, offers panoramic views for those willing to climb its narrow stairs. Unfortunately, for me with the kids in tow that was not going to be in the cards this trip, but that was fine. It was still delightful exploring. Having learned our lesson the previous day we made sure to find a place to eat before 2:00. After a relaxing lunch we wandered back over to Sainte-Catherine to make a stop a a pharmacy we'd seen the day before. Somebody had quite the coup de soleil (sunburn) so we were desperately seeking some ointment.
As we made our way back to the tram stop we strolled through the Place de la Comédie where one can see both the Opéra National de Bordeaux - Grand-Théâtre which represents 18th-century theatrical architecture at its peak, its neoclassical columns and ornate interior reflecting Bordeaux's cultural sophistication. Walking through the surrounding streets, visitors discover that each corner reveals new architectural treasures – from the ornate facades of the Triangle d'Or luxury shopping district to the intimate squares hidden throughout the old town.
Day Four: Ancient Wonders and Medieval Charm
Day four ventured beyond the city limits, beginning with an early morning drive to my wife's bucket list stop; the Grotte de Lascaux. The drive was around 2 hours and took us through some lovely countryside and was well worth the time spent traveling. You do need to book a time slot to visit which we had done several days earlier. They have a few different language options but if you want the tour in English you definitely want to plan ahead as there is only one, maybe two, tours offered each day.
The Caves of Lascaux were discovered in 1940 by four teenagers in the Dordogne region of southwestern France. Technically it was one of the boy's dog "Robot" who found the cave by falling in head first. While rescuing his stuck pet the boy heard rocks tumbling down inside and realized it was a cave. He made plans to come back the next day to explore with ropes and lanterns and as he was heading back to the site he encountered his three friends who excitedly wanted to accompany him. Why the excitement? Well, there was a legend in the region that there was an underground passage to Lascaux Manor but the legend wasn't just about the passage, but specifically about a secret tunnel that contained buried treasure. They thought they might have found it!
They didn't but what they did find was worth far more than treasure. As they descended they wandered around looking around and at one point looked up and were astonished. The caves contain some of the most extraordinary examples of Paleolithic cave art ever found. Dating back approximately 17,000 years, these limestone caverns house over 600 painted and drawn animals alongside nearly 1,500 engravings. There is one chamber you start in that you can take photos and it does give you some feel for it but once you go deeper into the caves no pictures are permitted. In this first room you can also see some of the tools that would have been used.
The artwork primarily depicts large animals that roamed the European landscape during the Upper Paleolithic period, including aurochs (ancient wild cattle), horses, deer, bison, and ibex. What makes Lascaux particularly remarkable is not just the quantity of the art, but its exceptional quality and preservation. The artists demonstrated sophisticated techniques, using the natural contours of the cave walls to give their subjects three-dimensional form, and employing multiple colors derived from iron oxides, manganese, and charcoal to create vivid, lifelike representations. Our guide had an electric "torch" that she used to illuminate the rooms when she turned off the other lights and it gave the paintings a real sense of movement in the flickering light. In the first chamber where photos were allowed she used a black light to illuminate the lines of the engravings which in normal light were barely visible.
The cave system consists of several chambers, with the most famous being the Great Hall of the Bulls, where four enormous black bulls dominate the ceiling, some measuring up to 17 feet in length. The artists who created these masterpieces showed remarkable skill in their use of perspective, shading, and movement, often painting overlapping figures that suggest migration patterns or herd behavior. You can view this cave in 3D via Google Maps here.
Beyond their artistic merit, the Lascaux paintings provide invaluable insights into the lives and beliefs of our Cro-Magnon ancestors, potentially serving religious, ceremonial, or educational purposes. Unfortunately, the original caves were closed to the public in 1963 due to damage caused by carbon dioxide from visitors' breath and artificial lighting, which led to the growth of harmful bacteria and calcite deposits.
Today, visitors can experience the art through Lascaux II, a meticulous replica opened in 1983, and the more recent Lascaux IV, which opened in 2016 and uses cutting-edge technology to recreate the entire cave system with stunning accuracy. Our guide explained that Lascaux II took 11 years to create with artist Monique Peytral and sculptor Bernard Augst contributing time replicate every niche of the cave and every painting to the last tiny detail. It was a remarkable visit.
The return journey featured a delightful stop in Saint-Émilion, a medieval hilltop town that seems frozen in time. This UNESCO World Heritage site enchants visitors with its honey-colored limestone buildings, narrow cobblestone streets, and vine-covered hillsides stretching to the horizon. It was around a half hour drive from Bordeaux but was on the way back from the caves so it made a logical stop.
We had an early dinner at a traditional restaurant that offered the perfect introduction to Saint-Émilion's renowned wines. Local sommeliers guide tastings of the region's celebrated Merlot-based blends, explaining how the area's unique terroir – a combination of limestone, clay, and optimal sun exposure – creates wines of exceptional complexity and elegance.
Walking through the medieval streets afterwards, we explored the remarkable Monolithic Church, carved entirely from rock in the 12th century. The town's elevated position provides breathtaking views across the vineyards, where rows of vines create geometric patterns across the rolling landscape. Of course we had to visit a couple of the wine shops and take a bottle or two home with us!
Day Five: Sand Dunes and Seaside Serenity
The fifth day brought a complete change of scenery with a drive to the Dune du Pilat, which was on my bucket list! The Dune du Pilat, Europe's tallest sand dune, rises majestically from the Atlantic coastline, reaching heights of approximately 110 meters and stretching over 2.7 kilometers in length. This natural wonder is a constantly shifting geological formation that moves inland at a rate of 1 to 5 meters per year due to prevailing winds and tidal forces.
The dune offers breathtaking panoramic views from its summit, where visitors can gaze out over the vast Atlantic Ocean to the west, the dense Landes forest to the east, and the pristine waters of Arcachon Bay to the north. What makes this dune particularly remarkable is its golden sand composition, formed over thousands of years through marine and wind erosion, creating an almost Saharan landscape that contrasts dramatically with the surrounding pine forests and coastal waters.
It was about an hour and 20 minutes drive to the area and when you arrive there is a large parking area where you park and walk to the 'base camp' village. Here there are several spots to eat, and gift shops, information centers, and restroom facilities. The Dune is free to visit but parking will set you back just under 10 Euro. You walk through the village and find yourself at the foot of the massive dune.
There are two ways to get up. Climb the sand, which is much harder than it sounds since the sand is so fine and you sink in with every step. The other option is the stairs, although these are not in place year round. Kids were everywhere tumbling down in the sand as we tried to climb so it required both effort and keen attention. It took us about 10 minutes to climb up this side.
From the dune's peak, travelers gaze across three distinct landscapes: the deep blue Atlantic Ocean stretches endlessly westward, while dense pine forests carpet the land to the east, and the pristine Banc d'Arguin nature reserve spreads along the coast to the south. The contrast between the golden sand, emerald forest, and azure sea creates an almost surreal vista that photographers find irresistible.
You can then walk all the way down to the ocean and wade in the water, which we did of course. The youngest in the group loved playing in the surf while my daughter was thoroughly content to just bury herself in the soft warm sand of the dune. They both enjoyed it so much it was difficult to get them to leave! The hike back up to the top was arduous once more and was much longer but thankfully not quite as steep. It still took us probably 20+ minutes to scale this side of the dune. Going down the steep side back to the village was easy enough as I plummeted down the slope using giant moon steps covering 3-4 meters with every leap. Ok, that was fun!
Just a short distance from the dune lies the charming seaside resort town of Arcachon, renowned for its Belle Époque architecture, pristine beaches, and world-famous oyster cultivation. Established as a fashionable resort destination in the mid-19th century, Arcachon is divided into four distinct quarters named after the seasons, with the Ville d'Hiver (Winter Town) featuring elegant Victorian villas nestled among pine trees on the hillsides, while the Ville d'Été (Summer Town) bustling with beachfront promenades and seaside activities. There is even a kids club that you can drop off the kids and explore the lovely town. Much as we would have loved to take advantage of that it was too late in the day and they weren't accepting any more.
The town sits on the shores of Arcachon Bay, a triangular lagoon protected from Atlantic storms by the Cap Ferret peninsula, creating ideal conditions for both tourism and aquaculture. The bay's shallow, nutrient-rich waters support extensive oyster farms that produce some of France's most prized shellfish, and visitors can enjoy fresh oysters paired with local white wines while watching the traditional flat-bottomed boats called "pinasses" navigate the calm waters between the colorful oyster huts that dot the shoreline.
There is a parking garage located underground right near the beach that opened up into the busy markets above driving in this town is a challenge though as the streets are often one way and are very narrow in spots. As we were getting hungry we decided to eat here for an early dinner. The kids were adamant on getting pizza, again. Seriously, do they ever eat anything else? Right near the market there is a square called the Place de Marquises which had numerous dining options and yes, Italian was an option. We ate at ALMA MÍA and the food was really quite good. One of our party had their signature dish which was a Pâtes à la pistache and she loved it. I opted for the spicy Diavolo pizza and it didn't disappoint.
Day Six: Wine Culture and Riverside Relaxation
My last full day was just with my wife and daughter as the other two in our group had to return home. We spent the morning helping get them organized and out to the airport and then we set off on our day.
This final day centered on wine culture at the magnificent Cité du Vin, Bordeaux's temple to global wine heritage. This architectural marvel rises from the Garonne riverbank like a golden wave, its curved glass facade reflecting the water and sky. The building itself serves as a metaphor for wine – fluid, organic, and ever-changing with the light. Our guide on the boat trip said it was designed to invoke the swirling of a glass of wine done to release the bouquet.
Inside, interactive exhibits take visitors on a journey through wine's role in human civilization. The museum's innovative approach combines traditional artifacts with immersive technology, allowing guests to experience vineyard landscapes through virtual reality, understand terroir through sensory stations, and explore wine's cultural significance across different civilizations.
The experience culminates at the museum's eighth-floor viewpoint, where a complimentary glass of wine accompanies 360-degree views of Bordeaux and the surrounding region. Visitors can identify landmarks discovered throughout their stay while savoring wines from around the world. I found it all very interesting as did my wife, but my daughter was bored out of her skull. I would probably have spent more time in there, but had to cut it short at about an hour and a half to prevent a meltdown.
We left the wine museum and headed to Garonne's right bank, where the recently developed waterfront promenade provided perfect conditions for leisurely shopping and relaxation. The Quais de Bordeaux stretches for several kilometers, lined with parks, playgrounds, and outdoor cafés where locals and visitors mingle in the warm afternoon sun. We found one of these cafés that were still serving lunch, Le Riva I think it was called, and grabbed some burgers. At least it wasn't pizza again...
Shopping enthusiasts discover unique boutiques in converted warehouse spaces, while others prefer to simply stroll along the river, watching boats pass beneath the city's elegant bridges. The Darwin Ecosystem, housed in a former military barracks, offers an alternative shopping experience with organic markets, vintage stores, and artisan workshops clustered around a large skate park and urban farm.
Since we had promised our daughter a return trip to the reflecting pool, we jumped back on the tram and headed back that way. After letting her splash around again for another 20 minutes, we decided to do one last stroll along Sainte-Catherine and bought a couple of things to take home. We had to get home to do our packing early because our flight the following day was very early and had us waking up at 4 AM.
Where to Stay
These are just a few of the options available I looked at on booking.com. I've not stayed at any of them, but they are very highly rated, and I would probably have chosen them given different stages in my life of travel: budget hostels up through two luxurious villas. Depending on your budget, take a look and see what you think but there are so many options available. I would recommend something either located on a tram line that takes you to the city center or in the city center itself because that's where most of the sites are. I would also recommend looking at renting a car even for a couple of days because you definitely want to get out into the countryside to see some of the places that are nearby.
1. CENTRAL Hostel Bordeaux Centre (Budget)
Well set in the centre of Bordeaux, CENTRAL Hostel Bordeaux Centre offers air-conditioned rooms, a terrace, free WiFi and a bar. Guest reviews highlight it as "Overall a good hostel. Cleanliness, location, people". This is perfect for budget travelers who want to stay centrally located.
2. Quality Hotel Bordeaux Centre (Budget-Mid Range)
Set in a 19th-century old mansion, Quality Hotel Bordeaux Centre is located near the lively Saint-Pierre district, surrounded by restaurants and boutiques. Reviews mention "Everything great. Location amazing. Staff excellent". This offers great value in a historic building.
3. FirstName Bordeaux, Part of JdV by Hyatt (Mid Range)
Situated in Bordeaux, 1.1 km from Museum of Aquitaine, FirstName Bordeaux, Part of JdV by Hyatt features accommodation with a terrace, private parking, a restaurant and a bar. Guests appreciate the "Nice location, clean, the snack room was good, comfy bed". This provides modern amenities with a reliable brand name.
4. Villas Foch Boutique Hotel & Spa Bordeaux (Upper Mid Range-Luxury)
Well situated in the Bordeaux Historic District district of Bordeaux, Villas Foch Boutique Hotel & Spa Bordeaux is located a 1-minute walk from CAPC Musee d'Art Contemporain, 400 yards from Esplanade. This boutique property offers spa services and is perfectly positioned in the historic district.
5. Yndo Hôtel (Luxury)
A luxury hotel set in a 19th-century private mansion in the heart of Bordeaux's historic center, Yndo Hôtel features a fragrance garden and a shaded terrace, where guests can enjoy a chic yet restful atmosphere. This represents the pinnacle of luxury accommodation in Bordeaux, housed in a beautiful historic mansion with gardens.
Where We Stayed
Maison d architecte Bruges/piscine chauffée/Tram D
As anyone who might follow me or read my blog posts would know, I love booking.com. I have used them extensively to find my accommodations and have never had a bad experience. Because I'm usually traveling with a larger group, typically family (grandparents kids, etc.) I tend to lean towards the vacation home/bed-and-breakfast kind of rentals. I have found some absolute gems throughout my travels and found yet another one this time in Bordeaux.
We had a home located right near tram station, walking distance to a grocery store akin to a upper scale, Walmart because it had not only groceries but it had home goods, outdoor needs, and pharmacy, etc. We had three bedrooms on the lower floor and another on the upper floor. The bedrooms on the lower floor lower all opened into the patio area with the pool via a sliding door. We also had shutters that were remote mechanically operated so you could use them to block out the sun during the heat of the day. We didn't even need the upper floors, but they were there just in case the kids wanted to play somewhere quiet.
Our host Beatrice was phenomenal and walked us through the place giving us the information we needed. It was a very modern home and yet very comfortable. Having the pool in the back patio area was fantastic because we were able to dive in and cool off at the end of the day and the kids had a grand time in it. For me the best part was taking the 10 o'clock swim when it was nice and quiet and the moon was just coming up.
I know your travel needs very considerably, and I tried to give a range of places that are suitable for all budgets, but given the opportunity I like to stay at these types of properties where we have the whole home simply because we like the space, the privacy and the ability to have all of our meals on the premises. So that's where we stayed and I would highly recommend it if you ever find yourself planning for Bordeaux. I also used booking.com to arrange our river cruise and was able to get a discounted rate for the attraction.
Reflections on Bordeaux
Our trip to Bordeaux revealed it as a destination of remarkable diversity. The city successfully balances its UNESCO World Heritage architecture with contemporary innovation, its world-famous wine culture with accessible everyday pleasures, and its urban sophistication with easy access to natural wonders.
Being able to explore Paleolithic cave drawings, a massive sand dune, famous wine regions, and quaint coastal towns all the while being centered in one of Europe's most livable cities made for an incredible trip. I would absolutely recommend it to everyone. History buffs, wine enthusiasts, and adventures alike will find something in this charming city. I might actually retire there...
Bon Voyage Mes Amis!
Planning a trip to Bordeaux? Allow at least five days to truly appreciate this remarkable region's diverse offerings. The city's excellent public transportation, walkable center, and proximity to natural attractions make it an ideal destination for travelers seeking both urban culture and outdoor adventure.
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