A Family Spring Break in New York
- Ian
- Apr 26
- 16 min read
Introduction
New York, New York, is everything they say
And no place that I'd rather be
Where else can you do a half a million things
All at a quarter to three…
Huey Lewis and the News sang this lyric in one of their iconic songs and I have to say it is pretty spot on. My wife, our daughter and I embarked on a 5-night adventure through the Big Apple that had us traversing from the Financial District to the Bronx, visiting the Hudson Valley, catching Broadway shows, and yes, consuming copious amounts of pizza and ice cream. Here's how our mid-April escapade unfolded. All media © MyPackWizard.
Day 1: Arrival and the Financial District
Our New York City adventure began with an early afternoon arrival at JFK. Thinking that the subway to train might be too tedious, we opted for an Uber straight to Wall Street, where we were meeting our Airbnb host. We arrived earlier than our check-in time, so we did what any sensible New York visitors would do – we found pizza!
Adrienne's Pizzabar on Stone street became our first NYC dining experience, and it set the bar high. The thin-crust, rectangular slices were the perfect antidote to our travel hunger. The three of us shared a full size old fashioned squared which was just perfect for our size group. It was definitely one of the best pizzas I've had in a while (outside of Italy that is).
After meeting our host for a walkthrough of the two-bedroom apartment we'd rented in the Financial District, we dropped our bags and headed out to explore the neighborhood. The iconic Charging Bull statue was our first stop, and we just had to take the classic tourist photo, rubbing its nose for good luck. I couldn't help but notice how the bronze had been polished to a golden shine from the thousands of hands that had done the same. We had to jostle around a bit to get our photo in but it wasn't too bad. There was a very long line though for other people who wanted to get the shot of them sitting down and rubbing, well, another part of the bull we'll just say.
Trinity Church provided a moment of quiet reflection amid the city's hustle and bustle. The hushed atmosphere inside coupled with the intricate stained glass and massive pipe organ were truly remarkable.
It was also fascinating walking by the old headstones in the cemetery, trying to decipher the worn inscriptions from centuries past.
We continued our walk to Battery Park as the afternoon sun cast a golden glow over the harbor. The SeaGlass Carousel was a must-do so we got in line and climbed into the giant illuminated fish that spun and twirled while playing ethereal music. The nearby playground became my daughter's domain for the next hour. It amazed me how kids can make instant friends anywhere they go. Soon she was running around with a group of kids while my wife and I enjoyed coffee on a nearby bench, watching ferries crisscross the harbor against the backdrop of the Statue of Liberty.
Our first day ended with a quick grocery run to Whole Foods and a home-cooked meal of penne marinara in our temporary apartment. As we relaxed that evening, watching the city lights come alive through our windows, we plotted our adventures for the days ahead. They call it the city that never sleeps and I can see why. It is so loud! Our apartment was on the ninth floor and the constant din outside made it hard for me, a light sleeper, to nod off. I ended up using my noise canceling headphones with my Calm app in order to get some shuteye.
Day 2: Zoo Adventures and Fine Dining
We allowed ourselves to sleep in a bit, adjusting to the surroundings and recovering from our travel day. I whipped up a quick breakfast using our groceries from the night before, while my wife and Sophie got ready for the day. Once everyone was fueled up, we headed to Ole & Steen, a Danish bakery on Church Street that had caught my wife's eye the day before. The cardamom buns were a revelation – slightly spiced, not too sweet, and perfect with a strong coffee.
From there, our day took different paths. My wife was meeting an old friend near the Guggenheim and wanted to squeeze in some shopping beforehand. Meanwhile, I'd been wanting to visit the Bronx Zoo since I'd read so much about when researching the blog post for the best zoos in North America, so that became our father-daughter adventure for the day. We caught the 2 train from Wall Street all the way up to the West Farms/Tremont station, tracking our progress on the MTA app. Once off the subway it was a short 5 minute walk to the zoo entrance.
The Bronx Zoo exceeded our expectations. When we first arrived we were greeted by several peacocks wandering freely among the guests. One was even kind enough to give us a full display. We made our way to the newly updated Dinosaur Safari which had just opened the day before our visit – talk about good timing! My daughter was enthralled by the animatronic dinosaurs that moved and roared as we walked by. "They look so real!" she kept saying, even though she knew they weren't. Sometimes it's fun to suspend disbelief.
While we both enjoyed the dino safari I think my daughter's favorite was the reptile house. We easily spent an hour in there looking at all the exhibits. The Congo Gorilla Forest complex was easily my favorite exhibit. The exhibit is one of the largest gorilla exhibits in the world at 6.5 acres along which you navigate a trail that is about 1/3 of a mile long. The trail takes you through various parts of the enclosure with information and viewing points along the way. There is even a tunnel you pass through where the gorillas (there are 20 of them currently) may pass right over top of you. As you can see in the video I had one walk within a few feet of me. Amazing!!
The Budgie Encounter was worth every penny of the additional $5 fee. Entering a room filled with hundreds of colorful budgies was magical. My daughter stood perfectly still with a feeding stick, her face a picture of pure joy when several birds landed to eat the seeds. "This is the coolest thing ever," she whispered, afraid to scare them away.
After about three and a half hours of animal adventures, we made our way back to Manhattan to reconnect with my wife.
Check out the slideshow below for more animals at the zoo.
Tips for the Zoo:
You must buy a timed ticket in advance and you have one hour to enter the zoo from your chosen entry time. Re-entry is NOT allowed here.
It is worth getting the full admission and not the limited type. The zoo has numerous attractions that are classified as "Star" exhibits and if you get a limited ticket type then you need to line up and pay for each additional experience. At $7 each location it is better to pay the full price and get full access to everything from the get go especially since all of the best exhibits are Star exhibits.
Keep your tickets handy on your phone as you need to show them at every Star exhibit to enter.
Bring a backpack with your own water and food. Dining options are pretty limited and you can save a fair amount by bringing in your own. Just be aware of the areas where food is not permitted to be eaten i.e. inside any exhibit.
That evening, we had reservations at ABC Kitchen, a restaurant my wife had been wanting to try for years. The farm-to-table concept didn't impress my daughter much, but she perked up when she saw pizza on the menu.
My grass-fed burger was cooked perfectly, though it needed a bit more flavor beyond the herbed mayo and pickled jalapeños – perhaps some hot mustard would have elevated it. The roasted artichoke, however, was magnificent – garlicky, lemony, and reminiscent of how I make them at home, only somehow better because someone else had to do the work! I love artichokes done this way where you pull apart the leaves and eat the bases of them working your way to the heart. Ohhh so good.
Over dinner, we discussed our plans for the next day and spontaneously decided to look up Broadway shows. "Wicked" had some great seats available for the following evening, and my wife and daughter were immediately sold on the idea. Musicals aren't really my thing, so I happily volunteered to find my own entertainment – a hockey game between the Montreal Canadiens and Carolina Hurricanes at a Canadian-themed sports bar called The Canuck seemed like the perfect alternative.
Day 3: Lady Liberty and Broadway Magic
Wednesday morning arrived with a brisk wind that reminded us April in New York can still feel like winter. We had pre-purchased tickets for the Statue of Liberty tour departing at 11:30, so we grabbed a quick breakfast at a local bakery and made our way to Battery Park.
The security lines were reminiscent of airport procedures – long, slow-moving, and thorough.
Once aboard the ferry, we were spared the biting wind across the harbor as we had lovely window seats in the warm cabin. My daughter seemed more excited about the snack bar than the thrill of seeing Lady Liberty growing larger as we approached but I was undaunted.
Liberty Island was bustling with visitors from around the world. We made our way to the pedestal entrance, went through another security checkpoint, and began the 215-step climb. My daughter sprinted ahead calling out every step sign, announcing our progress along the way.
The view from the pedestal was spectacular but brief – the narrow outdoor viewing area was being blasted by wind that nearly toppled one over. We quickly retreated inside to explore the museum, where I was fascinated to learn that Gustave Eiffel, of Eiffel Tower fame, had designed the interior iron framework of the statue even prior to building his most famous landmark.
Tips for Visiting the Statue of Liberty:
Buy your tickets online ahead of time and only from the authorized site. There are a lot of scam ferry tours that are pushed on you by people all around the Battery Park. Ignore them all. These tours are not allowed to stop on the island.
Go well in advance of your ticketed time, you should except to wait 30 minutes minimum to clear security.
Don't take anything that you would not take through security at an airport except for water. Pack minimally.
Make sure to dress appropriately. It can get very chilly on the island even on an otherwise warm spring day.
By early afternoon, the combination of wind, lines, and walking had taken its toll on our energy levels. We decided to skip Ellis Island and headed back to Manhattan for a late lunch/early dinner. My daughter was content with staying in and eating leftover penne from our first night, while my wife and I fetched food from nearby quick-service spots – Pret A Manger for her and Potbelly sandwiches for me.
After regrouping at the apartment, we set out for the evening. We took the number 2 train as it serviced both of our destinations. I headed to The Canuck just off W 23rd Street on 9th ave, while my wife and daughter continued uptown to the Gershwin Theatre for "Wicked."
The sports bar was exactly what I'd hoped for – authentic Canadian beers on tap, a Bloody Caesar (Canada's vodka, Clamato juice, and spice; a cocktail that's surprisingly difficult to find in the States), and fellow hockey enthusiasts creating an energetic atmosphere. I didn't eat while there but apparently their Poutine (a dish of french fries and cheese curds topped with a hot brown gravy) is fantastic.
Oh BTW, the Canadiens won and qualified for the playoffs with that win so the mood in the bar was pretty exuberant.
Later that night, I met my girls outside the theater. They were both absolutely buzzing with excitement, recounting every scene and song from the show while we rode the subway back to our apartment. My daughter's eyes shone as she described the flying scenes and the actress who played Elphaba. The show had clearly cast its spell on her.
Day 4: Ice Cream Dreams and a Change of Scenery
Thursday was relocation day, as we'd be moving from our Financial District apartment to the Embassy Suites in Times Square, thanks to some Hilton points I needed to use before they expired. But more importantly to my daughter, it was finally Museum of Ice Cream day – the attraction that had inspired this entire New York trip after she'd heard about it from a classmate.
We packed up early, said goodbye to our cozy apartment, and took the subway uptown. After dropping our luggage at the hotel (our room wasn't ready yet), we walked to Grand Central Terminal. It was nice to see the celestial ceiling and the famous clock in the main concourse again. We treated ourselves to brunch at the Grand Brasserie, where my Eggs Benedict were done to perfection.
From there, we strolled to Rockefeller Center, where the FAO Schwarz toy store proved irresistible. We told our daughter she could pick one thing, and she zeroed in on a pair of LED Adjustable Clip-N-Roll Skates. The sales associate made using them look effortless, gliding around the store like she was born on wheels. In the store they have a new 'feature' called Jellycat cafe. It seemed pretty silly to me.
You'd pick a squishable food stuffie and the staff there would make a show of cooking it up for you. Silly right? Well, apparently it was by reservation only and the soonest time slot was a month later and the line I saw was not all children. In fact most were women ranging in ages from 20 to 50. Who knew?
With our new purchase secured, we made our way downtown to SoHo for our 3:00 reservation at the Museum of Ice Cream. We had a little extra time to kill so we wandered over to a place my we'd read about in the Atlas Obscura. It was a place in SoHo that was an entire second floor apartment filled with dirt. Yep, that's it. The entire apartment has about a half meter of soil everywhere with a plexiglass half wall at the entrance showing the depth. It has been there since the 1970's and it is a free "museum" to enter. It is called The New York Earth Room. No pictures are allowed in the room itself but here is the sign at the entrance.
After that we went back over to the museum. The line stretched down Prince Street, filled with excited children and equally enthusiastic adults. Noticing some confusion ahead of us, I walked to the front to check that we were in the right place. The attendant confirmed this was indeed the line for reserved ticket holders and mentioned that walk-ups weren't being accepted as they were completely sold out.
I passed this information to several groups around us who had been waiting without tickets, saving them from further disappointment. Not a fan of sweets, I chose to skip the museum and instead headed back to our hotel to check us in properly and drop off our shopping bags.
Note: You need to book ahead for this place so make sure you plan before your trip.
See some of the rooms in the museum below in the slide show
After unpacking a bit and relaxing on the bed for an hour before heading back to find they had just left the museum. When I reconnected with them at a nearby Joe & the Juice, my daughter was sipping a seltzer water and looking slightly green. "I may have had too much ice cream," she admitted. Despite the temporary sugar overload, she insisted it was "totally worth it" and began showing me photos of sprinkle pools and ice cream-themed playground equipment.
After she recovered, we explored SoHo and Nolita for a while before heading to our 5:30 reservation at The Butcher's Daughter. This vegetarian restaurant had been on my wife's bucket list for years, and it lived up to expectations. My cauliflower cacio e pepe was creamy and flavorful, while the green curry tofu had just the right amount of spice. My wife's Pad Thai earned high marks, and my daughter – predictably – ordered pizza but at least we convinced her to partake in the Gem salad too.
The evening concluded with a leisurely walk back to our Times Square hotel, where we could see the bright lights of the square just a few blocks south but weren't particularly inclined to go there. Been there, done that kind of thing, but if you've never gone it is worth experiencing it at least once. Go in the evening though as the lights are much more spectacular.
Day 5: Central Park, Skating Struggles, and Suburban Escapes
After breakfast at the hotel's buffet, we headed to Central Park to let our daughter try out the new skates. The morning was sunny and mild – perfect park weather. We found a relatively smooth pathway, and as she sat down to put on her new wheels I realized we needed a screwdriver to properly adjust them. I made a quick trip to a nearby CVS while the two of them relaxed at a Starbucks. The pharmacy's overly extensive anti-theft measures meant that even a simple $15 tool required an employee to unlock a cabinet, but eventually, I secured what we needed.
Once I made the adjustments she gave it a try only to immediately find out that what the sales associate hadn't mentioned was the significant learning curve involved. She struggled to maintain her balance, toppling backward within seconds of standing up. My wife and I quickly positioned ourselves on either side, holding her arms as we awkwardly shuffled along the path, much to the amusement of passing joggers. After 20 minutes of what could only be described as a human-powered tow service, we called it quits.
We spent the remainder of the morning wandering through the park, enjoying the spring blooms and people-watching. The vastness of Central Park in the middle of such an urban landscape never ceases to amaze me – it's like finding an oasis in a concrete desert.
After leaving the park, we explored Bryant Park where a marketplace had been set up with various vendors.
I couldn't resist stopping at a stall called Hell's Kitchen Hot Sauce, where I added to my collection with a few bottles of small-batch spicy concoctions. My fridge at home is already overflowing with hot sauces but I am always on the hunt for a new one.
In the afternoon, we decided to take a nostalgic side trip and visited Dobbs Ferry, a charming village along the Hudson River. We hopped on the Hudson Line train from Grand Central and enjoyed the scenic ride northward along the river. Our main destination was Caffe Latte, a spot we'd frequented, but we were disappointed to find it had closed down. Nevertheless, walking the quiet streets of Dobbs Ferry was a pleasant change from Manhattan's constant motion. As the sun dropped it got cool so we decided to just head back to the city.
For our final dinner in New York, we chose Sip Sak, a Turkish restaurant we'd enjoyed on previous visits. Unfortunately, we learned that the original owner had passed away, and the restaurant was under new management. While the mezze (appetizer) platter and manti (small beef dumplings) were decent, they lacked the special touch we remembered from years past. Still, it was a pleasant meal and a quiet way to end our New York adventure.
Back at the hotel, we packed everything except our morning essentials, somehow finding room for our various purchases, and relaxed in front of the television the remainder of the night.
Tip on Hotels in New York:
Parking rates are usually atrocious so maybe re-consider renting a car or driving to the city.
Most hotels have a "urban fee' or "destination fee" that is added to any rates you have already paid. This is true even for any free night rewards or rooms booked with points and is not something you can opt out of. I wrote an entire blog about it but in summary they tack on anywhere from $30 to $50 dollars per night. In turn you get say, a $30 daily credit for the hotel restaurant (cannot be accumulative) and they lump internet fees into it (even if your tier status already gives it for free) and maybe $15 off valet parking (even if you didn't drive). The long and short of it is they are just conning you out of more money per night. Plan for it in your expenses and maybe grab a couple glasses of wine each night from the hotel bar to use the credit.
Avoid the hotel restaurant when possible and dine out locally because the prices in the hotels are considerably higher than in nearby restaurants. It is convenient yes, but you pay for that dearly.
Day 6: Homeward Bound
Our final morning in New York was straightforward. We checked out around 9:00 AM and, rather than spending $120 on an Uber to JFK, opted for the more economical subway option. The E train took us directly from times square area to Sutphin Blvd/JFK, where we transferred to the AirTrain – total cost: about $35 for all three of us, compared to $120 for an Uber.
At the airport, we used our Priority Pass (a perk from my Capital One credit card) to access the Virgin Atlantic lounge, where we enjoyed comfortable seating and complimentary refreshments before our flight. It is nice, you just scan the QR code on the cards on the table and pick what you want. The attendants then bring them out to you. Some items are added cost such as fries, alcohol, etc. but there are a lot of free items as well. I had a veggie plate and some hummus with pita and a coke for example at it was free.
As our plane took off and the Manhattan skyline receded in the distance, I reflected on our whirlwind trip. We'd managed to hit many of the city's highlights while also having some unique experiences that were special to us. From Broadway shows to hockey bars, dinosaur safaris to ice cream museums, we'd crafted a trip that had something for each of us.
Most importantly, we'd created memories that would last far longer than my daughter's new skates (which, between us, I suspect might end up forgotten in a closet before too long). Seeing New York through her eyes – wide with wonder at the city's energy and possibilities – reminded me why we prioritize travel as a family. It's not just about the destinations; it's about the shared experiences and the different perspectives we gain along the way.
Our NYC Travel Tips
What Worked Well
Mixing our accommodation types: The apartment gave us space and kitchen access for the first part of the trip, while the hotel's amenities were perfect for the latter half
Using public transportation: The subway system is efficient, economical, and part of the authentic NYC experience
Pre-booking major attractions: Having tickets for the Statue of Liberty and Museum of Ice Cream saved us from disappointment
Splitting up occasionally: Not everyone enjoys the same activities, and our separate adventures gave us more to share at dinner
Money-Saving Tips
Take the E train/AirTrain combo to/from JFK instead of taxis or Uber
Look into credit card perks like free hotel stays and Priority Pass for airport lounge access
Mix dining options between restaurants and apartment cooking if possible
If dining at your hotel make sure to charge everything to the room as opposed to paying for it separately. You'll gain more points by doing this.
Summary
New York City remains one of our favorite urban destinations – a place where you can visit repeatedly and always discover something new. This spring break adventure showed us that the city has endless possibilities for families with children of all ages. While I do love visiting the city, I also appreciate the fact that I don't actually live there. I'm fine with big cities in small doses but eventually I long for my quiet suburban neighborhood and knowing everyone I pass on the street as I walk my dog.
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